Honghuang column #

The H & M event not only pulled out the fast fashion brand to eat Chinese meals, and the Chinese pots, but also reflected the disadvantage of China in all fashion industries: We are the biggest consumer, but we don’t have the country. What is the right to speak, a big brand, a foreign brand in everyone’s mouth. This is not normal in that country, all of which are in this country to change.

First of all, we really lag behind the West in terms of establishing standards, so that BCI and similar NGO have become standard setters. In fact, BCI is just a NGO, a association, and the name of the United States is to be environmentally friendly. It is actually collecting money, and it is mainly the money of the third world cotton manufacturer. You don’t pay the fee, I will not give you a certification, don’t give you a certification, that European and American big cards do not buy your raw materials. However, like a member of the US cotton producer Boswell is a member of BCI, but these brands will come to buy Boswell’s cotton, BCI is also open, double standard, allowing brand to continue to publicize cotton with BCI certification. So good, if you are a Chinese brand, you buy the BCI certified cotton (whether it is Xinjiang or imported) BCI China office will immediately call you so far, ask Chinese brand to pay, It can only say that I use BCI certified cotton, that is, if you are a brand, Chinese brand must pay the money to use BCI certification, and foreign brands seem to have used cotton products that have not joined BCI, so you can use it. All are BCI certified cotton.

So BCI is a bullying agency, and the cotton producer of Africa, India, China is extortion, and threatened the buckle; and the Western brand is open, the double standard, and the BCI’s Council actually has H & M this fast fashion Seriously destroying environmental protection companies, so my conclusion is BCI but a company that destroys the environment to yourself to be shable, plus cotton producer and like China’s large-service production site local brand contribution money.

How can this a set of institutions can do? And do you have agencies in China?

It is our own establishment of the standard. As the largest fashion producer and consumers, we did not build our own standards, even sell clothes in our country, the size of the five-flowers, Americans used Americans in China Selling, the British sells the British size in China, you must know that the human body is not the same, each country will ask the clothing plate to do according to the local size standard, and China, as the biggest market in the clothing, there has never been required to import Clothing brand.

On the contrary, our company is defended by this international fake standard, and this story is a bloody account.

Most of China’s apparel companies are in addition to the family, and the pricing of the foreign order is decreasing year by year, and foreign retail business orders to tempted the threat to China’s clothing companies and let them cut prices again. This also forces China’s clothing companies to reduce costs, environmental protection, and artificial in various aspects are victims under this crush. In order to force foreign brand companies to reflect the Chinese factory, many private entrepreneurs have joined these so-called industry NGOs, labor treatment standards, and the annual fees, of course, it can guarantee China’s clothing manufacturers. Profit. So I always say that there is no fashion industry in China, only the clothing industry.

However, today’s China is the largest market in the fashion industry. There is a Chinese brand boss to tell me, he is determined to do OEM (processing plant) is because the fashion industry’s profit chain is a smile, the upper left corner is a brand, accounting for 45% of the profit chain The upper right corner is retail, which also accounts for 45% of the profit chain. The bottom, the bottom, laughing, only up to 10% profit is a processing plant, and the processing plant is a company that requires large investment. Therefore, there is no one in my own processing factory. They put the hardest work to the hard-sweat factory, China is not poor, go to Vietnam, Vietnam to go to Bangladesh, all in all, in all, fast fashion is crust Workers, destroying the environment, growing up the US fast consumption phenomenon. The ultimate beneficiary of this fashion industry chain is the importance of the United States. After World War II, after the 70-year economic crisis, the capitalism will become an important topic of the United States and Western rights, while consumerism is the answer to this question. Let the people of the West use the lowest price to buy similar expensive items, let them put their energy to the consumption, do not consider the rich and poor of capitalism. In order to produce these cheap consumer goods, of course they have to find the lowest cost and laborer. The global economy has begun, and the development of China must admit that China’s development and global economies cannot be opened, but we need a fair dialogue opportunity, a fair global agency, a new game rule that mutual respect, cooperates together.

The first wave of the fashion industry comes to China is a luxury, because China has an international brand hotel, and these hotels need to sell products with their guests, which can be said that luxury goods into China because there is a suitable sales environment. But fast fashion into China is different. The fast fashion brand is an algorithm. It seems that when a city’s per capita income exceeds $ 2,500, the fast fashion brand will enter the lightning speed. The fast fashion brand is naked and naked.

I remember H & M Shanghai opened the store, the people in the mountains, as if the things were white, they also found a famous designer to do a joint brand, forgot who is. After I have seen the Korean American Forever 21 brand, the same, remember very clearly, he is asking what activities I can do, I asked him to sell, he said my jeans in the US $ 6, Is it possible to sell crazy in China? He said this time my mind is all the Pearl River Delta those dyed colorful rivers. I told him that I didn’t have a 6 dollar jeans.

Luxury is coming, fast fashion, that of course, Western fashion media is coming.

The first in China is France’s ELE magazine, Chinese is called “Fashion Court”. The French came in so early, and it could not be completely money-driven. It is a bit of a cultural first-in-one concept. It is necessary to know that the French knows how to use soft strength. Pierrkan came to China to let them realize that China in the 1980s is still a white paper in life and beauty pursuit, directly putting the French’s aesthetic implantation in the Chinese people’s minds in the Chinese market. Must be prepared. It must be said that this trick is very successful.

By the end of the 1990s, most of the luxury brands have entered China, so Xiong Xiao pigeon has invested IDG to invest in fashion magazine, introduced the brand below the US Publishing Group: “Cosmo Iraqi”, “Esquire”, “Fashion Bar Shape “, etc. At that time, I have already started to do iLook, a native fashion magazine, I still remember that I saw the first COSMO’s cover in front of the newspaper in front of Yorsha Department Store, and I was complete, I’m finished, the whole Chinese woman’s aesthetics should be complete Western, and it is the kind of American aesthetic aesthetic, I suddenly feel that I am a small mouse, and I am going to die at any time.

A few years later, the United States’s Condanas Group entered China with the most headed publications of the fashion media. The female magic is coming. At this time, the Chinese aesthetics is the laying stone of the European and American fashion industry in China. It is imagined that if we are still cheongsam, long shirts, how can I sell suit and miniskirts?

“Vogue” After entering China, China’s fashion public opinion is tightly controlled by overseas media. The existence space of Chinese brands is always squeezed, and these overseas media and overseas fast fashion companies are closely cooperated, China Brands and The living space of local magazines is particularly difficult.

That is, because even in China, the local fashion public opinion is also controlled in the Western Publishing Society, so when the “Xinjiang Cotton” is happening, the Chinese fashion public opinion will be full, and their overseas headquarters cannot let them do any action. In fact, these Chinese fashion editors are not a good thing?

So returning to Xinjiang cotton incident, I am not a fun, but it is a good thing. If we have to drive domestic sales, how important the aesthetics and the aesthetic education, I am not a 100 best clothing, I am talking about fashion The context, our own clothing tradition, our standards for clothing size, raw materials, need us to establish, can not listen to others.

Finally, some people have a lot of people, I think it should be a big e-commerce platform, or a business platform to rise, to go to Putian to save the manufacturer, these fast fashion will immediately call production orders, It will cause unemployment, technology loss, once home, it will not be back, I think China’s red, tide cards and e-commerce platform should help these OEM manufacturers. Let them close the door.